Birding The Cleveland Way – Sandsend To Robin Hoods Bay

Sat 30th Nov, 2024

Birding the Cleveland Way

Growing up on the northern edge of the North York Moors National Park, Richard has always wanted to walk the entire length of the Cleveland Way, to explore the landscape, birds and wildlife along this fabulous National Trail. His plan is to walk a different section every month over the course of 2024 and write a blog in the process. Joining him on these leisurely walks is artist Jo Ruth.  

On the 12th November we arrived back in Sandsend just after dawn; the best time to start a walk. Greeting us outside the car door was a female European Stonechat sat up high on an old hogweed flower. These delightful birds have followed us throughout our journey appearing on nearly every walk. 

European Stonechat - Sandsend 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

Strolling south towards Whitby with the wind on our backs was a great feeling and it wasn’t long before I stopped and had a scan of the sea to look for seabirds. Small numbers of Great Cormorants were fishing offshore and two Red-throated Divers flew south followed by a small group of Common Scoter. The sea was much calmer in the bay than further out so my mind wandered towards cetaceans, I kept a keen eye out for any dorsal fins appearing above the waves. Occasionally concentrated searching does help, but more often than not the best wildlife appears when I least expect it.

Whitby whale bones 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

The trail enters the town of Whitby on the western cliffs. Overlooking the impressive harbour are the famous whale bones. The original whale bones belonged to a Bowhead Whale and were erected in the 19th Century. The current arch replaced the old one and was donated by a community in Alaska in 2002. When I was a young boy, I remember the bone arch looked huge and I never thought I would ever see a real whale in Whitby. Little did I know…

Turnstone - Whitby 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

Down in the harbour small numbers of Ruddy Turnstones were feeding on fish scraps close to the fishing boats. Watching these charming birds running around our feet it was easy to forget their incredible migration. Ringing recoveries and satellite tagging studies have revealed our Western Palearctic population breed in Greenland. Turnstones are one of the furthest north breeding waders in the world. On their way to Greenland in spring many of our western European birds stop off in Iceland to refuel. They exhibit a high degree of site fidelity, returning every year to the same areas in winter, on migration and in summer.

Desert Wheatear - Whitby 26 January 2018 © Richard Baines

Climbing away from the harbour on the southern side of the town the trail follows the famous 199 steps up to St Mary’s Church at the top of the cliff. The area between here and Ling Hill Farm can be good for finding scarce and rare birds. I remembered seeing a rare Desert Wheatear near the Abbey in January 2018 which took up residence for a few chilly weeks.

Whitby whale bones 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

Looking back towards Whitby one last time I heard a familiar sound on the cliff top. Snow Buntings calling overhead! A flock of eight flew over us heading north. This was a great bird to see and hear on our walk.

Bottle-nosed Dolphins - Whitby 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

Shortly afterwards a scan over the sea and bingo! a pod of 12 Bottle-nosed Dolphins, appearing exactly on cue when I was thinking about birds. These were the first cetaceans we had seen on our Cleveland Way journey -  very exciting.

Eurasian Curlews - 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

After the thrill of the dolphins, my attention was quickly back to birding as 46 Eurasian Curlew, well camouflaged, landed in a cliff top stubble field and gave great views east of Stoupe Cross Farm. After seeing a large group feeding in pasture on our previous walk this flock emphasised again how important both the rocky coast and cliff top fields are for wintering Curlews.

Eurasian Curlews - 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

Whitby Fog Signal and light sit very close to the edge of the cliffs at Whitestone Point creating an impressive feature above the wild North Sea.

Whitby Gog Station and Light - 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

From here a public footpath runs back inland creating an ideal birding loop back to Hawsker Lane via Ling Hill Farm.

Volunteers working on the meadow - Hawsker Bottoms 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

After several great wildlife stops, we needed to get stomping towards Robin Hoods Bay. Our next pause came at Hawsker Bottoms. To the east of Northcliffe Holiday Park, a group of North York Moors National Park volunteers were busy removing cut vegetation from a wild flower meadow. This essential work helps conserve a great area for wild flowers every summer. In August this year I was in the same place enjoying the display of flowers which will benefit from this management.

Wild Flower Meadow - Hawsker Bottoms 17 August 2024 © Richard Baines

I made a note to return next summer to see the display again.

Looking back north towards Rain Dale 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

After Hawsker the cliff top trail continues south past wooded gullies such as Rain Dale where a short linking path leads to the disused railway cinder track. This creates another potential loop walk option. Walking north from Robin Hoods Bay to Rain Dale and returning using an alternative route.

Rock Pipit - Rain Dale 12 Nov 2024 © Richard Baines

The fields by the cliff top trail in this area held a small number of Eurasian Skylarks and a Rock Pipit which were feeding below a stone wall. Rock Pipits are another coastal bird which benefits from fields with invertebrate food at high tide and beach habitats when the tide is low.

Robin Hoods Bay 12 November 2024 © Richard Baines

The final stretch of our walk followed the trail down into the picturesque village of Robin Hoods Bay where a Common Kestrel and a female Eurasian Sparrowhawk scrapped over a catch. A spectacular end to another good birding and wildlife day on the Cleveland Way. 

© Richard Baines, Yorkshire Coast Nature