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Big Cats and Birding in Jaipur and Ranthambore December 2024
Sun 22nd Dec, 2024
Occasionally in life you have to pinch yourself. A bare-knuckle jeep ride in Jaipur followed by close up views of a male Indian Leopard was just the start of our family wildlife safari in India at the end of 2024. At 23 km² Jhalana is a relatively small wildlife reserve compared to the big national parks, but the first leopard park in India really delivers some great experiences. With no Bengal Tigers the leopards are easier to find spending more time resting on the ground rather than hiding in trees. Up to 35 Leopards have been found by local researchers since the park opened in 2017.
Indian Leopard - Jhalana, Jaipur 12 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
On our three-hour jeep trip, we found three Leopards which was well above our expectations. My previous sightings in India had been restricted to brief views of secretive animals in Corbett National Park. Our first encounter was the most memorable as a large male walked towards our jeep on the track. After a short stroll towards us showing no real fear, he slowly climbed up a bank and drifted away into the forest vanishing like a ghost into the tall grasses. I will never forget that last cold stare before he left the track.
Black-shouldered Kite - Jhalana, Jaipur 12 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
The local guides and drivers on these jeep safaris focus on big cats so we always have to emphasise how important the birds and other wildlife are. The addition of expert birding guide Harish Sharma has been essential to my group trips for several years. His keen eye and local knowledge were once again indispensable. Being on a jeep can feel restrictive but the opportunity to approach some great birds such as Black-shouldered Kite is well worth it.
Jal Mahal the Water Palace - Jaipur 12 December 2024 © Richard Baines
Jaipur proved to be a wonderful city with many fabulous places to visit such as Jal Mahal the Water Palace. The view across the lake was very impressive along with good birding opportunities. We saw Great White Pelicans, large numbers of Indian Cormorants, herons and waders such as Black-winged Stilts.
Great White Pelican and Indian Cormorants - Jaipur 11 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
After Jaipur we travelled to the famous Ranthambore National Park. A year ago, we had booked five jeep safaris and a visit to Ranthambore Fort. On my previous visit to this huge reserve, I realised the importance of having as many days as possible with a good number of drives which increases the opportunities for big exciting encounters! The most popular and most impressive national park zones at Ranthambore are 2, 3, 4 and 5. Beautiful rivers and lakes, wide open landscapes and historic buildings add a great deal to the experience.
On the 13th December we entered zone 3, moved into the grassland area and immediately caught sight of a Bengal Tiger. Success after only twenty minutes and on our first drive. This was very lucky. Harish confirmed how fortunate we were but then recounted an amazing story from a previous trip where the rangers opened the huge gate at the entrance to zone 3 to be faced with a tiger walking towards the gate. This was quickly followed by a shout “close the gate”!
Bengal Tiger - (Arrowhead) Ranthambore 13 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
Our first Bengal Tiger was Arrowhead a mature female and a famous grandmother. She certainly acted in a cool and mature manner. After checking us out at distance she calmly walked past the jeeps on her morning patrol.
Great Thicknee - Ranthambore 13 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
The whole reserve is an incredible place for wildlife. Only a few meters away from Arrowhead was a Great Thicknee basking in the first rays of warm sunshine by the side of a huge Marsh Mugger Crocodile! We found these impressive reptiles in many wetland areas of Ranthambore.
Indian Flying Fox - Ranthambore 13 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
After the thrill of seeing Arrowhead, we drove slowly through zone 3 seeing many good birds and wildlife. Wooly-necked Storks, River Terns, Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer and two Indian Scops Owl which were huddled up close together keeping warm in a tree cavity. Nearby a colony of Indian Flying Fox bats hung above the track looking amazing in the sunshine. Their bronze fur shining just like a fox or even a tiger!
Bengal Tiger - Ranthambore 13 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
It didn’t take long though for us to find the next tiger. A group of jeeps had found a young male in the forest. After watching him at distance through the trees we couldn’t believe it when he walked down to the track past the jeeps and into the grassland close by.
Bengal Tiger - Ranthambore 13 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
He then chose to lie down in the grass less than 20m away and immediately opposite our jeep, incredible! This male was 19 months old with three siblings, his mother was the daughter of Arrowhead.
At this age the young tigers are still dependent upon their mother, a bond which lasts for up to two and a half years after which they become totally independent. We encountered this family again in the same place a day later on the morning of the 14th.
Bengal Tigers - Ranthambore 14 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
They had just finished eating a kill made during the night. After a while they moved off through the trees together on a territory patrol.
Bengal Tiger - Ranthambore 14 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
After this great start to the day, we moved back to the lake and grassland area where we had seen Arrowhead the previous day. Luckily her daughter’s family arrived shortly afterwards. This was part of their territory and they were very keen to cover all areas regularly spraying trees and rubbing cheeks on tall grasses, scent marking in the same way a domestic cat would do.
Bengal Tiger and Brown Crake - Ranthambore 14 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
One of the young cubs was very keen to cover all bases and wandered down to the lake before giving several weak roars, calling to its family as it turned around to re-find its siblings. On this jaunt the cub walked past several birds on the shore without a flinch from any of them. But maybe the Brown Crake looked a little worried…!
Our third and final drive with tigers was on the same afternoon but in zone 2. A large dominant male slept by the side of a stream occasionally rolling onto its back with a paw in the air. Further along the trail at a viewpoint overlooking the river a family of at least three cubs were feeding on a kill in the tall grassland. Views here were equally tricky with just the odd leg raised above the grass waving a paw at the distant jeeps. Every wave brought a soft cry of anticipation from the onlookers.
Bengal Tiger (injured male cub) - Ranthambore 14 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
At around 10am my mind wandered towards birds on the river. I was the only person looking in the opposite direction and I am glad I was as a Bengal Tiger appeared by the side of the river. This was another young cub but rather than walking confidently towards its family it was limping and holding its left front leg off the ground. We later learnt the rangers’ examined some photos and concluded the injury was most likely a thorn so they were hopeful of a full recovery.
View Across Ranthambore from the Fort. 15 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
After such great drives on the first two days, our third day was spent at the spectacular Ranthambore Fort. This was a good opportunity to stretch our legs and learn about the history of this magnificent fortification. At the temple we were all impressed by the colour, friendliness of the people and the food. Snacking on masala chai and pakora was a great way to relax and take in the experience.
Dusky Eagle Owl - Ranthambore 16 Dec 2024 © Richard Baines
On our fourth and final full day at Ranthambore we were back on the jeeps with two drives; one in zone 4 and one in zone 5. On these drives we saw lots of great birds the best of which were the two Dusky Eagle Owls which were nesting immediately above the jeep track. The male must have been suffering from a lack of sleep but he managed to keep his eyes closed for most of the time despite numerous vehicles stopping for a view. Nearby were Citrine Wagtails, jacanas, egrets and many waders all benefiting from the good water levels. In the late summer of 2024 this part of India had experienced the best monsoon for over 20 years.
After a good sleep we boarded the early train from Ranthambore to Bharatpur for the next part of our journey. Ranthambore had been incredible and my family were all falling in love with India.
Steve and I lead a small number of Wildlife, Birding and Photography trips to India every year. If you would like more information about our trips and register for our newsletter please drop us an email: info@yorkshirecoastnature.co.uk
YCN Director and Wildlife Guide